Capacity vs. Utilization Training

6 Sep 2014
Cool Stuff, Training for Alpine Climbing, Coaching, Training Tips, High altitude training
By Scott Johnston In our book, Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House and I make the distinction between non-specific and specific training. This distinction lies at the heart of our training philosophy. It also represents a significant paradigm shift for many climbers. Based on the number of questions we have received it is a concept that many folks are struggling to come

Fatigue: Friend or Foe

21 Sep 2014
Training Articles by Skyward Mountaineering and Coach Johnston: Fatigue: Friend or Foe
By Coach Scott Johnston Fatigue in one form or another is a nearly constant companion of any endurance athlete. Learning how to regulate, control and absorb fatigue is the secret to successful training. Most people see fatigue in a blanket sort of way…all fatigue is the same…you feel tired. What is the big deal? But the successful endurance athlete becomes a connoisseur of

Applying Periodization Theory for General Fitness

9 Dec 2014
Applying Periodization Theory ...even if you do not have a major goal and just want to become generally fitter by Coach Scott JohnstonWhen Steve and I wrote Training for the New Alpinism our focus was on telling people what we had done that had worked well for Steve and aided his climbing success. I have used those same principles with great success with world class cross c

The feeling of training

2 Sep 2015
Photo by Marko Prezelj Steve House approaching the Sphinx Wall, Triglav’s North Face, Slovenia. July 2015.
By Steve House Training doesn’t have to be complex. In it’s most simple form, training is: Exertion Rest Repeat Despite the appearances given by our book, Training for the New Alpinism, I often don’t train with a specific plan. It helps that I did so for over a decade, that I can feel what I need to do. So this is what it feels like to me. Exert: I train

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